An Ideal Holiday Destination

The background of the island had were rather poor, only knew that it is the embarkation point of the salt mined in Black Warrior and has two large villages. My immediate destination was El Morro, whose springs have made Cedros Island the third busiest port in the country (and first in the Pacific Coast) for their cargo. Seven million tons of salt left here only in 1998. Rigoberto Cardenas, who had the favor of showing the docks, took me to see another amazing spectacle: dozens of sea lions dozing quietly in the main spring brackets, each being used as pillows.


I was excited the same with animals than with his own carelessness, however the port and our presence hustle a few steps. After the port area saw some of El Morro, a town brand for its cleanliness and modernity (at least when compared to the Cedars village, 9 km to the north) which has a beautiful church. The next day was designed to reverse the island’s boat Catarino Martinez. Don Catarino is without doubt one of the main attractions of the island. With half a century of experience as a diver and fisherman, no one knows those seas like him. In the forties started using still underwater scuba dives, and decades later accompanied the famous Ramon Bravo to film killer whales roamed the coast of Cedros. So that Thursday hoped that live hour sea wolf, but the fog prevented.



Unable to make the excursion I was in what is properly known as Cedros, the largest settlement on the island. It is a fishing village that grew up without any planning. The ruins of a fish packing plant and several abandoned houses talk about that not long ago lived better times. Cedros is a relatively young town. It was founded by fishermen in 1922. Initially working for one of the companies of Abelardo L. Rodriguez, president of Mexico from 1932 to 1934. Later they did for the Japanese and some Mexican firms and most recently for the National Fishermen Cooperative Abalone Baja California.


Previously there were many who knew and inhabited the island, starting with the Indians. Covarrubias Hiram Professor Wilkes, which is how the local authority in history, told me that there are several sites with traces of their former camps. The Jesuits who explored and evangelized the Baja California noted in the eighteenth century the name the Indians gave to the island: something like “Huamalguá” which appropriately enough means “Nebula”. In 1540, the expedition of Francisco de Ulloa, sent by Hernán Cortés, discovered and took possession of this piece of California land. With the wisdom to put names to the bold explorers flaunted Hispanics, this island rich in pine, oak, juniper, torotes and many trees, but not cedars, given its current name. For some unknown reason, in the two centuries after the name was corrupted to “Island of Hills” (much more suitable than the original), and then by another equally obscure reason, recovered the previous name. On Friday he hoped to clear dawn climb to the central mountain ranges and meet its strange forests.


Package deals in cedar city is among the two most important elevations of the island, Cerro de Cedros, in the south-central and Pico Gill, north, these forests are famous with two endemic species of pine (Pinus radiata var. Cedrosensis ) and another of oak (Quercus cedrosensis). After a kind invitation of Rigo, decided to go on a dirt truck which runs south and west of the island. We were accompanied on the tour two salineros: Orlando and Javier. The first kilometers of the southern coast, which the locals call El Playon, were encouraging. A clearing in the endless clouds cream revealed a beautiful blue sky framed by a rainbow. But as we lined the west the sky turned as opaque as my expectations. Hardly the fog we would see beyond our noses.


Indeed, once we got to the west coast and try to climb the slopes of the mountain range the problems started. Clouds hid up the hills more dwarf and a thin and persistent drizzle made me feel, cold as raw as the worst in the city of Mexico. To make matters worse, the rain became muddy the gap through which wanted to climb, and the van slid over and over again. After months of absolute dryness Cedros Island was rainfall (and touched just me). For comfort, Rigo, plotted Javier Orlando and visit the southern fishing grounds. We first Wayle field that has a tiny beach where a boat can only simultaneously. Hence fishermen took us to St. Augustine, in the southwest corner of the island. St. Augustine, rather than visit, worth living. If it exists in the world a typical fishing village, this is St. Augustine. Then began lobster season and local fishermen have laudable custom of inviting the visitors the crustacean in unlimited amount. The only condition is that the host put it prepares its own. There were dozens of lobsters struggling vainly to get out of the bags and boxes.


A medium ship approached San Agustin and fishermen ran to the boats: it was Maria del Carmen, Abalone National Fishermen, which had for its lobsters. I followed, and in a flash we were in the water. Fishermen have lobster traps, abundant there as in few places in the world. Daily live lobsters collected and enclosed in wooden crates floating tied to each other. At that point they rush to pick up the boxes and take them to Maria del Carmen, next to queuing to deliver. On the boat, other drawers hoisted cooperative and its load-tabilizan. Verified with a rare form of rule in C that are adult animals are smaller if the water returning to the chagrin of fishermen. But the proper size in other drawers throw them where someone else checks the weight.


Cedar Hotel, Plate 3Photo Credit:Thomas Hawk

When the task is completed the ship returns to the town of Cedros, where the locusts are driven to the airport and then continue its long journey first to Ensenada, BC, then to San Diego, in Alta California and from there, who knows! On Saturday, my last day on the island, another attempt boat excursion with Don Catarino was again canceled by the morning mist. However, hours later the miracle happened: at noon, a bright sun lit the airport of El Morro. The route we followed the coast of Cedros Island, first south and then west to the north. The beauty of this piece of sun-drenched Mexico offset all the troubles of the week. There was first of Jerusalem, the eastern district of El Morro, sociable and tidy. Then he saw the stunning contrast of an emerald sea with sandy soil in El Playon. In the west, we could see the plain interrupted by dry beds of several streams.


Hundreds of meters beyond the Pico Gill, clarity allowed us to see another hill crowned by the same forest I wanted to know the day before and could not. It was a tiny grove with many fallen trees, but sturdy foliage. Clouds clawed its shores in the west, but once we crossed the island toward the bay Sebastian Vizcaino discovered the shiny bald skirt of the hill. In that area we draw several circles over the mountains, the coast and the sea.